Monday, March 7, 2011

Pair of bodies - with reed boning

Since moving over to the Netherlands, I sometimes get annoyed with trying to find decent supplies for fabric, notions, boning and other items. So I order online often from the UK since I can read the websites a bit easier (although google translate is a wonderful help, and yes, I can read some Dutch... I'm just lazy.)

I realized that my old corset would not fit my new shape properly anymore thanks to age and (much) more weight on me. I looked around at various types of steel boning and came to a grim conclusion. I had no idea anymore how many bones and what sizes I would need.

So, I first tried using the corset pattern generator found on http://www.elizabethancostume.net/.  I did have to take in the sizing a bit. I actually tried this pattern first with the remainder of steel bones from my old corset and did the normal Elizabethan straight style of corset. I found that I didn't have enough bones, and it didn't...ahem... keep me contained... very well. I looked even bigger than I actually am.

I then thought to myself, this might be a perfect opportunity to try out other types of boning. Lo and behold I found a site in the UK that would send me rolls of reed boning for a good price (~ 15 Euros per 12 foot roll http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/ ) . Perfect opportunity to create a mockup without having to go through much fuss. Or so I thought.

I also realized that the corset pattern didn't exactly fit me comfortably or create the shape I wanted. So I decided to try out some 18th century corset styles. I figured with my size I would probably get away with using this corset for Elizabethan on up to 18th century by using this pattern. I know it's not exactly historically correct, but I'm looking for comfort as well.

My first mockup corset with the new patterning was made with one layer of cotton canvas on each side and reed boning cut to size for each channel. The whole thing is machine stitched (again, it's a first mockup, so no need to go through much fuss). I've only used prepackaged cotton bias tape for the binding. Since I wasn't sure if the reed would actually support me I decided on a fully boned corset. It definitely took some time to cut each piece to size and round off the corners. I wore that corset for an entire day just to see where the "odd pokey bits were". Afterwards, I shortened the front of the corset so it doesn't hit me quite so high on the bosom. This runs a high risk of me popping out (thank you smock!) however it doesn't ride up as much then when I sit down, or create other strange effects with the bosom. I haven't yet figured out how I'll do straps on this thing yet. Lowering the front line of the corset also helped with any bones poking me in the armpits.     I altered the corset to be front and back lacing.. I don't have it laced completely in the front in this picture,  but hey, it's just a quick picture while I'm trying to do some fittings of other items.  I'm not quite sure yet how to correct what is going on in the front with the boned tabs without having to use a busk.  They flip up to that position when I sit down. It is also where my belly pudge tends to go. It also does not give a perfect straight line but indents slightly under the bust.

However overall I'm actually pleased with how this fit me despite the tabs poking up strangely in the front. I find that the corset is more comfortable than having steel bones and also breathes quite well in the summer. I definitely think I will use this option again for middle-low class costuming. I might consider the pattern with steel bones in case I want to do another nobility outfit - only to make sure the line is somewhat straighter - but then again, maybe not, this one is doing surprising well all things considered. And at least I have something that fits me better than my first attempts.

(once again, my apologies for the slightly fuzzy picture - I can't seem to hold my hand steady like this, and oh my, I do not like my profile, it's looked wierd like that since I was 20 or so and even with less poundage! You also can see my attempt at renaissance hair taping in this photo)